‘Ello, from Croatia. My sixth country of the trip that marks a month since I’ve been gone from the USA. Let’s break it down.

Dubrovnik, Croatia: My first day in Croatia was amazing. The drive in was gorgeous and I was immediately fascinated with the tall, skinny green trees nestled between the fall colors, which seem to go on forever in the Balkans. I’m used to the two-week Colorado fall, so to have such a lengthy fall vibe has been a dream. 

I got to my AirBnb in Dubrovnik and was greeted by one of the owners, who showed me around the apartment. The apartment is nestled in a beautiful garden, just a ten minute walk from the old town, and has a gorgeous balcony with an unobstructed view of the sea. Then I headed down to old town, walked for many, many kilometers (I’m still using the metric system here, folks), and enjoyed the views and the history. I bought the Dubrovnik pass, hit a couple museums, then walked the old city walls just as the wind and rain was picking up. It did make for some cool, spooky photos.

Later in the afternoon, I ended up meeting a local at a pub and we had a couple of drinks and we got to chatting. He told me all about his job, his family, and growing up in Dubrovnik. Told me some of the history. He introduced me to some Croatian wine (quite good, by the way, although it isn’t my favorite) and told me about the wine region. Then I got home for an earlier night and got some sleep before another day of exploring and writing.  

Vibe of the moment – a hint of loneliness and self-loathing: My second day in Croatia, I woke up feeling kind of down. I was writing at a local cafe over a latte and a green smoothie, and I was writing about some really sad shit in my silly little book. I was going through and editing a lot of my book, and reading about all of my past failed relationships, situationships, etcetera. A wave of loneliness hit me like a very large and very rude brick. I started replaying all of the criticisms people, mostly former romantic interests, have said about me in the past. I wrote an exhaustive list, but it is a little lengthy and a little too depressing to put in here. I’ll save it for the book. The TLDR version is that I am too cold, standoffish, heartless, and that I give off terrible first impressions (my last ex asked if I could please be less myself when I met people for the first time). Maybe some of these criticisms are true, but they don’t define me. I’m not that bad.

The weight of my solitude hit me hard as I walked the beautiful Dubrovnik city walls for the second time to take photos. Oh, woe is me. But still, I’m allowed to let myself feel sad sometimes. I never expected to be on cloud nine the entire time I traveled. But that day in Dubrovnik was the first time I really let it all hit me. The loneliness of it all. I just hope that someday I can find someone that not only loves me, but that actually fucking likes me. I thought I’d share this, because it is real and traveling alone with strangers who often ask why I’m traveling alone and why I’m not married can be exhausting and lonely. I went and sat by the sea and had a brief but proper cry. At least it was very scenic. And then I felt a little better. I’ll take one sad day in the midst of twenty-eight great days. Also, I bought a Game of Thrones shirt that says “ALL MEN MUST DIE” and that made me feel a little better too. Burn it all down. Give me a dragon.

Anyways, here are some photos from Dubrovnik:

Those Windemere peaks look like a perfect place to cry. Here’s where I cried by the sea. After I felt better, I found it funny to snap a picture. Best sad girl spot ever:

History lesson of the moment: The Siege of Dubrovnik – this was a horrific (and recent) offensive by the Yugoslav People’s Army (“JNA”)  against Croatian forces trying to defend Dubrovnik and its surrounding areas during Croatia’s struggle for independence. The Serbs and Montenegrins fighting for the JNA started its advance on October 1, 1991, and it lasted through May of 1992. Dubrovnik was nearly destroyed and 194 Crotians, 165 in the JNA, and around 88 Croatian civilians were killed. The Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, was bombarded and the world was furious.

By the end of 1992, the region was recaptured by Croatian forces. Around 16,000 refugees were evacuated from Dubrovnik during the war and around half of the structures in the city had been damaged or destroyed. Citizens in Dubrovnik suffered for three months with no electricity and no water. Following the bloody and brutal siege, the international community recognized Croatia’s independence. Today, Croatia is an incredible country that is now part of the EU and a huge international destination for tourists (mainly during the summer, there are barely any of us here now). 

Split, Croatia: For my last few nights in Croatia, I stayed in Split, the second-biggest city that is full of history and is up the coast from Dubrovnik. I got to stay in a very, very fancy hotel thanks to my American Express credit. I also got a credit for a massage, which I took full advantage of. My bed was comfortable, my room was by the sea, and it was some much needed rest. 

When I got into town, I walked around the city and explored. I headed to a nearby bar and pizza place that looked vibey on google maps. It is the depths of shoulder season right now and it was a rainy day, so there was almost nobody in the streets and there was nobody in the bar except for the bartender. He greeted me, and his accent sounded British, but he looked Croatian.

“You’re from here, yeah? Why do you sound British?” I asked him.

“Well, when I grew up and learned English, my favorite TV show was British and I lived in London for two years,” he told me. 

We got to chatting more. I ended up staying for over two hours, and after I ordered my initial cocktail, he started bringing me samples of local Croatian aperitif liquors. One after the other. He was funny, kind, and brought me lots of free stuff. We were vibing. Ah, here I go falling for a random stranger again, I thought. Alas! He told me all about growing up in Croatia, his time in the UK, and gave me some good local recommendations for bars and lookout points for the sunset. 

I went back the next day because he said he was working again and talking with him seemed to have shaken my lonely feeling from Dubrovnik. I ended up sitting down for another couple of hours, and he brought me more samples of Croatian beverages. One, which became my absolute favorite, was called Teranino and is being featured as my “drink of the moment” in lieu of my usual bit in this blog about food. My favorite bartender’s name is Vito. His parents named him after the character in The Godfather because his parents thought he would be a girl. Turns out he was a boy, and his Italian father had recently watched the movie, so Vito it was. Hilarious.

I decided not to go back and see Vito on my final day in Split so that I wouldn’t seem too obsessive, you know. Gotta stay mysterious. Instead, I went on a long walk, spent some time writing about happier things in a cafe, and then went to the local park, the Marjan, to take some photos during golden hour.

Here are some photos from Marjan, which was…astoundingly beautiful:

Snack — drink of the moment: Teranino red wine liquor. It was so delicious. It reminded me of a cold version of mulled wine, with similar spices. “It’s dangerous, isn’t it?” Vito joked, and he had a glass with me. I need a bottle ASAP. Here’s a photo and a photo of my new favorite Croatian bar (I miss u, Vito <3): 

Song of the moment: The Bolter – Taylor Swift (I think I had this as an honorable mention before, but now it gets the stage)

Why? Because. I am the bolter. I bolt. I ran away from all of my problems and I ran away from emails.

Featured lyrics: 

A curious child, ever reviled by everyone except her own father

With a quite bewitching face

Splendidly selfish, charmingly helpless,

Excellent fun til you get to know her

Then she runs like it’s a race

….And they nicknamed her “The Bolter”

Listen to the song:

Anyways. My next stops are Slovenia, Belgrade, then Berlin, and I’m staying in super social hostels in all of those cities. In Slovenia, I am staying at a former military prison that was converted into a hostel. The rooms are old prison cells. I’m sooooo cool and trendy. More on that in the next post!

Oh yeah, here are some cats:

Cheers!